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All Ages Need Preventative Aging Skin Care

While we, as estheticians, need to address very specific skin care concerns of our clients on a daily basis, from acne breakouts to dry, compromised skin, preventative aging treatments continue to be the most prevalent concern. As I wrote in Dermascope magazine, of all skin concerns, anti-aging continues to be the most prevalent, and across all age groups.  We are now seeing scientific breakthroughs that may one day help us reverse signs of aging.  We are also finding skincare ingredients that can help a client’s skin maintain its youthfulness through-out their life.  Here, we’ll look at some of these futuristic developments, as well as give recommendations on what you can do now to help provide your clients with the fountain of youth in your spa.

Anti-Aging Market
The global anti-aging market is expected to surpass around US$ 119.6 billion by 2030. 42 percent of women ages 25–34 and 54 percent of those aged 35–44 worry about signs of aging like lines, wrinkles and lost facial volume. More than a quarter of the millennial (28 percent) women surveyed under the age of 25 admitted that they too regularly worry about how aging takes a toll on their skin. According to the findings, millennials age 25–35 reported to have started using anti-aging products as early as 26 years old. Their older counterparts, ages 55 and older, said the average age they began the relying on anti-aging products was 47.

The overall characteristics of skin aging include:
With each passing year the average moisture content of the stratum corneum is slightly decreased.
Drier skin manifests in fine lines.
The hormonal changes brought on by menopause decreases sebum production, depriving the skin its natural lubricant.
The epidermis thins out.
The dermal papilla, which is the anchor of the epidermis, flattens out, resulting in loose, tissue like texture.
Cell renewal rate slows down, making healing slower.
Circulation is impaired.
Desquamation becomes uneven, affecting the evenness of skin tone.
The optical characteristics of the stratum corneum, its color and its translucency change, becoming more opaque and move from pink toward yellow and grey.
Environmental exposure and changing metabolism impact the structural proteins making skin less elastic and less firm.
A lifetime of repeated movement results in “expression lines” around the eyes and mouth.

The Biggest Causes of Aging Skin: Extrinsic Aging
UV Light

Exposure to UV radiation is the primary factor of extrinsic skin aging.  Up to 90% of the visible skin changes commonly attributed to aging are caused by the sun.

Absorption of UV and visible light occurs due to melanin granules in the epidermal cells. Research shows that production of collagen in keratinocytes decreased in UV-radiated skin. This type of collagen is key maintaining the structure of the skin at the dermal-epidermal area.  Decrease in this production is said to contribute to wrinkles.   Melanin is present to protect the skin from damaging effects of sunlight. Exposure to sunlight, especially UVA and UVB radiation, stimulates the production of melanin resulting in a pigmentation increase such as hyperpigmentation. These changes can be seen as early as in one’s 20’s.

The skin’s inflammatory response may be seen initially as erythema (redness of the skin), which results from dilation of blood vessels in the dermis as a response to the cell damage and repair process. Erythema is an indication of damage to the skin inflicted by the sun. Following erythema or sunburn, the skin responds by proliferating cell production and producing melanin, which can immediately givesthe appearance of a tan and long term result in hyperpigmentation.

Pollution

UV light is not the only factor contributing to premature aging. In a review of reactive oxygen species (pollution) and inflammation, researchers found that the skin, now under ever greater assault from pollution and toxic elements in the environment, is not able to fully neutralize these on its own. Furthermore, inflammation and the resulting accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) play an important role in the intrinsic and photoaging of human skin in vivo. Environmental insults such as UV rays from sun, cigarette smoke exposure and pollutants, and the natural process of aging contribute to the generation of free radicals and ROS that stimulate the inflammatory process in the skin.

AGES

Free radicals have also been reported to participate in AGE formation and in cell damage. One important factor about AGEs is that they not only can cause damage on their own, but can be generated by free radicals.  In this respect, because of the increase in environmental aggressors such as UV light and pollution, it is important to understand how AGE’s work.

Advanced Glycation End products (AGEs) are caused by too much glucose or sugar in the body and cells. Research has found that if there is too much sugar in the body, protein molecules can cross-link with sugar molecules. Once this cross-linking process has occurred, the new sugar proteins are called AGEs.

Cross-linking degrades proteins and creates AGEs, which are, in turn, responsible for leading to many age-related illnesses like cardiovascular disease, diabetes, cancer, blindness/deafness and Alzheimer’s. When it comes to the skin, glycation is believed to be the main culprit behind deep wrinkling, thinning skin and the appearance of age spots.

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